Guide to Permanent Hair Straightening: Methods and Risks
Many people considering permanent hair straightening worry about the potential damage these treatments might cause. This guide aims to shed light on the different hair straightening methods, highlighting their risks and benefits. In this article, you’ll explore techniques like hair straightening perms, how they work, their side effects, and considerations to help you decide the best option to straighten hair.
Types of Treatments
Several permanent hair straightening methods promise to tame curls, frizz, and waves. Each technique employs a unique chemical process to transform your hair, and the results can vary in longevity and intensity. Some treatments are designed for at-home use, while others demand the expertise of a professional stylist. Let’s break down the most common types of treatments.
Professional Permanent Straightening
When you think of a “perm,” you likely imagine coiled, bouncy curls, but a perm can also do the opposite—smooth out curls for a sleek, straight look. This treatment permanently alters the hair structure by breaking and reforming the bonds in your hair. A professional hair straightening perm usually takes several hours in a salon, depending on your hair length and texture. Expect to pay at least $50, with prices climbing for longer or thicker hair.
Though effective, this chemical hair straightening process isn’t without risk. It can weaken hair, making it more prone to damage, breakage, and dryness. However, for those seeking long-lasting straightness, a salon perm offers an affordable solution with a typical lifespan of six months before regrowth begins to show.
At-Home Perms
If you’re considering a DIY route, at-home hair straightening perm kits are widely available at beauty stores and pharmacies. These kits promise professional-grade results for a fraction of the price, starting at $15. However, achieving salon-quality results can be tricky without proper training. Improper application can lead to uneven straightening, scalp burns, and even more damage to your hair than you’d experience in a salon. Most users find that at-home perms offer short-lived results, often fading after a single wash. While convenient and cheap, at-home perms may not be the best option if you seek a durable, reliable outcome.
Keratin Straightening
Keratin treatments, including the famous Brazilian blowout, offer a semi-permanent hair straightening solution that smooths hair while restoring moisture and shine. These treatments are particularly effective for reducing frizz and are ideal for those looking to soften curls rather than completely straighten hair. A keratin treatment typically lasts three to five months, depending on your hair care routine.
Salon appointments for keratin treatments can be expensive, often starting at $150 or more. Additionally, though marketed as safe, many keratin treatments still contain harmful chemicals, such as formaldehyde, which pose potential health risks. Keratin treatments may also require multiple appointments to achieve the desired result.
Japanese Thermal Straightening
Japanese thermal straightening (also known as an acid perm) might answer those wanting a longer-lasting straightening method. This process is similar to a traditional perm but uses heat to straighten hair permanently. The treatment can take up to six hours in a salon chair and costs anywhere from $200 to $800, depending on your hair length and choice of salon.
While the results can last up to six months, the initial process is intense and can significantly damage your hair’s natural texture. Once your roots grow, there’s often a sharp contrast between the new growth and the straightened portion, requiring frequent touch-ups. Though effective, this treatment may not suit those with delicate or damaged hair.
Hair Rebonding
Hair rebonding is a chemical hair straightening method that alters the structure of your hair to remove waves and curls. This treatment is popular for its ability to create ultra-straight hair free from frizz or flyaways. However, the process is time-consuming (taking between two and four hours) and expensive, ranging from $250 to $1,000.
Like Japanese thermal straightening, hair rebonding causes significant damage to the hair shaft. While it delivers sleek results, the damage it causes makes hair more challenging to style and manage until the natural hair grows back in. Hair rebonding also poses health risks, as most formulas contain formaldehyde.
How It Works
Permanent hair straightening relies on potent chemical solutions to alter the structural proteins in your hair. Regardless of the treatment, the core process involves breaking the bonds that give your hair its natural shape.
- Application of Chemical Solution: The process starts with applying a chemical hair straightening solution that breaks the hydrogen bonds in your hair. These chemicals penetrate deep into the hair shaft, reshaping the internal structure of each strand.
- Neutralization: After the chemicals have done their job, a neutralizer is applied to “lock” your hair into its new shape, whether bone straight or mildly wavy. This neutralizer re-bonds the protein structures in your hair, cementing the straight look.
- Styling and Waiting: Once the neutralizer sets, the hair is rinsed, blow-dried, and styled. It’s important to note that many treatments require you to avoid wetting your hair or sweating for days after the procedure to ensure the style stays intact.
However, it’s worth noting that the chemicals used in this process often have strong, unpleasant odors. Additionally, you’ll inhale these chemicals long after you leave the salon, as they remain in your hair for some time after the treatment. Salon workers and clients may sometimes experience respiratory irritation, watery eyes, and skin reactions from prolonged exposure.
Side Effects
Chemical hair straightening is not without side effects. The most common issues stem from these treatments fundamentally damaging your hair, making it brittle and more prone to breakage. Hair that has been chemically straightened often feels dry and straw-like until the damaged portions grow out and are replaced by new, untreated hair.
Additionally, many hair straightening treatments contain formaldehyde—a known carcinogen. Prolonged exposure to formaldehyde can lead to serious health problems, including respiratory issues, skin irritation, and even an increased risk of developing breast cancer. Even treatments marketed as “formaldehyde-free” can produce formaldehyde as a byproduct when heated, so it’s difficult to avoid exposure altogether.
Natural Alternatives
There are safer alternatives for those looking to avoid the risks of chemical hair straightening. Products that are lye-free or contain alkaline sulfite may offer a gentler option, though they still pose some risks. However, the safest route is to embrace heat-free straightening methods, such as using hair wraps, rollers, or satin pillowcases to maintain smoother hair overnight.
Additionally, if you’re pregnant or trying to conceive, you should avoid permanent hair straightening treatments altogether, as the chemicals can be absorbed through the scalp and may pose risks to the developing fetus.
Pros and Cons of Different Straightening Methods
Permanent Hair Straightening (Salon)
Pros: This is often the most affordable salon option and can last up to six months, saving you time and effort on daily styling.
Cons: The hair is permanently damaged, leading to split ends, breakage, and thinning over time. Once straightened, your hair can’t revert to its natural state, even if you desire a curly look.
At-Home Perms
Pros: Budget-friendly and convenient, at-home kits offer an affordable way to straighten hair.
Cons: Achieving professional results can take time and effort. If the instructions are not followed correctly, you risk damaging your hair and scalp. Moreover, the results rarely last beyond a few washes.
Keratin Treatments
Pros: Keratin treatments provide smoother, shinier hair for up to six months and can improve hair texture.
Cons: The chemicals in keratin treatments, especially formaldehyde, pose health risks. The results fade over time, leaving an awkward contrast between treated and new hair.
Japanese Thermal Straightening
Pros: This treatment provides long-lasting, low-maintenance straight hair.
The cons: Japanese thermal straightening is time-consuming and expensive and can severely damage hair, making regrowth tricky to manage.
Hair Rebonding
Pros: For ultra-straight, frizz-free results, hair rebonding is unmatched.
Cons: The harsh chemicals used can cause significant damage to your hair and health, making it harder to style until your hair grows out.
Conclusion
Permanent hair straightening offers a variety of solutions to transform textured, curly, or wavy hair into smooth, straight locks. While the promise of low-maintenance, sleek hair is appealing, weighing the potential risks, such as hair damage and exposure to harmful chemicals, is crucial. Permanent doesn’t mean forever—once your hair grows out, you’ll need to decide if it’s worth re-treating or embracing your natural texture again. Talk to your stylist and consider your options carefully before committing to any hair straightening method.
